This morning, I made biscuits like my grandmother did: with White Lily Flour, baking powder, butter, and milk. She made a well of flour, poured milk, patted the dough into a round with her hands, cut her biscuits with a juice glass or a mason jar. I loved watching her make them. I loved eating them. To really think about biscuits, you have to think about who makes them and who eats them.
To really think about biscuits, you also have to think about affordability. I wonder now why my grandmother used canned evaporated milk. Was it less expensive than fresh milk? Or just more practical to bake with the same milk my grandfather used as cream for his coffee?
Now, I most often make biscuits with unbleached whole wheat flour, baking powder, butter, Greek yogurt, and organic fat free milk. They’re healthful and hip. But this morning I made biscuits much like my grandmother did. Because I miss her. And because they’re really good. Many Southerners swear by White Lily Flour. But White Lily has been bleached to be whiter, a process that smacks of hegemony. It’s not much of a leap from “White Lily” to “lily white,” the notorious 19th and 20th c. Republican party campaigning to exclude people of color from politics. It’s not much of a leap to suspect the lightest flour of championing the lightest skin color.
I’m not the only one suspicious of the confluence of food and social purity. Continue reading